The Importance of Using Quality Fasteners

Most people think that a nail is a nail, or a screw is a screw. This could not be farther from the truth. There are at least three very important considerations to think about before selecting the right fastener for the job, and hopefully after reading this you will understand why this is important.


Several years ago my father built an addition on his home. Having a son that works for a structural hardware company, he wanted to make sure he added hurricane ties to the top plate to tie his roof framing down thereby creating a continuous load path. Not being a framing contractor, but more of a DIY’er, he selected any old screws to install the ties. Visiting Dad’s project that day after he had finished framing, he proudly showed me his work. The first thing I noticed was he used phosphate coated drywall screws to install his H2.5A’s to the framing. He could not have used a much weaker screw when it comes to shear loads when installing structural hardware. How many times have you seen a drywall screw’s head pop off while driving them?

Simpson Strong-Tie follows a rigid set of requirements to test our products in order to gain building code recognition for our products. Most of the hardware products we manufacture depend on the fasteners that are used to secure them. In fact, each product has a list of acceptable fasteners (nails or screws) to make sure that the loads published in the catalog can be achieved in real life to withstand the forces of Mother Nature, or just the day to day loads a structure needs to be safe.

Unfortunately, the hurricane ties my father used will not perform very well during a storm. If he had used the nails or screws that were recommended, the installation would have been much better. In order to make a connector that is efficient, Simpson tries to minimize the number of screws that need to be used on each part. You can imagine that a production framer wants to get the job done, and every fastener they need to install takes time and increases labor costs. Simpson designs their hardware to use the least number of fasteners to get the job done. Stronger screws or nails means fewer fasteners.


After looking at strength, the next important factor is durability. A deck contractor in Hilo once called me and asked if we had a deck screw that he could use on a deck other than stainless steel that would cost less and last just as long. He had priced out the stainless steel screws and wanted to save money. At Simpson, we make lots of different fasteners, with lots of coatings to choose from. For instance, there is black phosphate and clear zinc that fall into our low level of corrosion resistance. We have a double barrier coating and a Class 55 mechanically galvanized coating for a medium level of corrosion resistance. And then there are different stainless steel types for high or severe levels of corrosion resistance. Lots to choose from, right? How do you know how to select the right coating for the fastener you need?

It all boils down to evaluating the corrosion conditions the fastener is going to be installed in, and the material the fastener is being installed into. For instance, if you are going to install a fastener inside a wall cavity, you probably would need a nail or screw with a lower corrosion resistance because the environment inside a wall is relatively dry. On the other hand, if you are going to install a fastener in a wet environment, or let’s say in an area close to the ocean, you most definitely need to select a fastener that has high corrosion resistance for a severe environment due to the salt air. Type 316 stainless steel is better than type 304 or 305 stainless steel. And did you know that Type 410 stainless steel only provides a low level of corrosion resistance due to its composition? It is harder but less durable. So be careful when selecting a stainless steel fastener.

It is also important to think about what the fastener is going to be attached do. Different types of treated lumber have different treatment chemicals, some of which are highly corrosive to metal. Hi-Bor (or sodium borate) is not very corrosive to metal, but on the other hand, being a water soluble treatment it is not supposed to be used for outdoor applications. Treatments such as ACZA (Chemonite) are highly corrosive to fasteners and only stainless steel is recommended for these applications.

So after I looked through Simpson’s selection of fasteners for deck screws, I called the deck contractor back in Hilo. I asked him why would he build a deck in treated lumber, outdoors, in a wet environment with anything less than stainless steel? Did he really want to come back to the project in just a few years after his client was complaining about red rust stains on his deck? Ultimately, I convinced the contractor to stick with Type 316 stainless steel for his deck project.


While most people think there is not much difference between different types of screws, a framing contractor can easily point out the difference. Different screws perform differently, and a screw not only needs to be structurally dependable, it needs to be workable. In other words, it needs to drive easily into the substrate it is attaching to, it should not shear or break during installation, and most of all, when going into wood, you do not want to use a screw where you have to pre-drill the hole to drive it in.

Lag screws or bolts for instance are one of the most labor intensive fasteners to install. Rather than using two different drill bits to pre-drill the hole and properly install a lag screw, our engineers have developed a screw that has a special cutting tip that bores the hole and fastens the screw at the same time without pre-drilling, thereby significantly cutting labor time in the field. High performance fasteners save the contractor time in the field, and many times, using higher performance fasteners will reduce the number of overall fasteners required to get the same job done to achieve the strength and reliability required.

Screws can be made with an assortment of head, thread, and point styles. It takes just the right combination to maximize a screw’s performance. Manufacturers like Simpson, that understand the anatomy of a screw, produce precision fasteners that get the job done faster while at the same time providing a stronger connection. This is accomplished through engineering and rigorous testing. Perfection is a never ending process to meet the ever greater challenges of the industry. You may pay more for the fastener up front, but you will save time in labor and service life when using a high performance fastener.

So for your next project, think about the fastener you are going to use. Make sure not only to select a strong fastener, but make sure it will last and not need to be replaced, and find a fastener that is easy to install at the same time. This will make your project more enjoyable, and at the same time keep your customer happy for years to come.

Tim Waite, PE, Simpson Strong-Tie Company

What Kind of Wood to Use on Maui

What Kind of Wood to Use on Maui

For those who don’t want to read the whole blog, here are 4 bullet points.

  1. Always use treated wood except for forming concrete or temporary structures.
  2. Borate treated wood is the bomb for interior framing and certain exterior applications such as siding and fascia where it is sealed with primer and 2 coats of exterior paint.
  3. For exterior framing and decking look for Copper Azole (CA), Micronized Copper Azole(MCA) or alkaline copper quaternary (ACQ) treated wood  labelled for “Above Ground“ use.
  4. For Fence posts or any project where the lumber is in the ground or touching the ground look for the above treatments only  treated  and labelled for “Ground Contact” These products will have a higher concentration of treatment and will often be incised.

Hawaii’s tropical environment possibly more than any other state poses more risks of decay to building materials  and the structures created by them. Termites, carpenter ants, wood boring beetles and the weather dictate the importance of using the right product for your application. To illustrate what to use and where let’s look at a newly constructed house from the ground up.


For forming concrete or use in any temporary structure and certain interior trim applications using untreated Douglas Fir (DF) is acceptable.  Beyond that our environment dictates the use of steel, pressure treated wood or composites. For our discussion we will ignore steel as Maui unlike Oahu has never bought in to its’ use for construction except for commercial applications.

Interior Framing:

All framing material needs to be treated period! Prior to the end of 2003 when CCA (Copper, Chromium & Arsenic) pressure treated wood was officially banned from residential construction it was the product of choice for framing in Hawaii. CCA offered excellent protection against termites when correctly used. Unfortunately CCA under pressure only treated the outer 1/8” of lumber. The primary misuse was not end-coating with CCA the saw cuts that exposed the raw untreated center wood allowing termites access.  Since that time Borate treatment became the wood treatment of choice. In many ways Borate treated would was far superior to CCA. It was non-toxic to humans (We wash our hands and clothes with Borax). It moves towards water and since wood cells are full of water it treats far deeper into lumber eliminating the need to end coat except for lumber with a minimum thickness exceeding 2”s. That’s the good, now for the bad.  As previously mentioned Borates move towards water. This limits their use for exterior applications except for certain trim or siding applications when fully encapsulated by painting a good quality primer and 2 coats of quality exterior paint. One issue became apparent and still exists to this day with the transition from CCA to Borate treated lumber. That is the assumption that because it is treated it can be used for all kinds of exterior applications as well. Borate treated lumber will typically have a plastic tag labelled Hi-Bor, Tim-Bor or some other name with a –Bor denoting which proprietary borate product was used.

Exterior Framing & Decking:

All exterior use wood products will typically be labelled (CA) for Copper Azole, Micronized Copper Azole (MCA) or alkaline copper quaternary (ACQ). The tag will also specify for “Above Ground” for use such as decking or “Ground Contact” for use as fence posts etc. Often posts treated for ground contact will be incised by machine creating small indentations for better penetration of the treatment. For decking the use of composites such as Trex or Azek/Timbertech offer a nice looking easy maintenance alternative albeit at a higher price point.

Siding and Trim:

As previously mentioned Borate treatment is acceptable for siding and trim with proper painting. For siding there are also alternatives to wood such as cementatious panels and lap siding by James Hardie, vinyl siding by Alside as well as many composites and aluminum options. For trim and fascia stay away from lower grades of Douglas Fir it’s just not worth it except perhaps for skirting around post & Pier foundations. Acceptable options  include clear fir and cedar if you are staining. For paint grade there is primed, finger-jointed cedar and primed, finger-jointed, treated Radiata Pine. Finger-jointing is where a mill will cut out clear pieces of wood between knots and notch out interlocking fingers then glue and join multiple pieces to form longer lengths. On the composite side a great paint grade trim product is Miratec. It is primed, comes in multiple dimensions and is moderately priced.

By Andy Paul

Retired, Former GM of Honsador Lumber Maui

Why is it important to hire a licensed contractor?

When you make the decision to do work on your home or office you have to go through the difficult process of finding the right Maui contractor for the job. This becomes increasing difficult with so many options out there. Often times homeowners don’t realize that in the State of Hawaii any individual or company is legally required to carry a contractors’ license from the state if the labor and materials for the jobs is more than $1,000. There are multiple reasons that you should choose to work with a licensed contractor. See link for more info:

• Experience- a contractor licensed by the state has a substantial amount of experience that has been verified by the state contractors board.
• Liability- a licensed contractor carries multiple types of insurance including liability and workman’s comp (if they have employees.) If something were to go wrong on your job whether it job failure or someone is injured, if your contractor does not have the correct types of insurance, you as a homeowner are liable.
• Financial stability- the contractors board has verified the financial stability of a contractor before offering them licensing.

Given that it is so difficult and costly to become a licensed contractor, they often charge more than someone that is unlicensed. Along with that price comes assurances that this company or individual is capable and carries with them a greater suitability to do the job. There are multiple times that in the course of our business we have come across work performed by unlicensed contractors for homeowners that is done incorrectly or in such a way that it costs more for the homeowner long term than had they just hired a licensed contractor to start with.

You may get sticker shock when you receive a quote from a contractor, but it is important to realize that their expenses are not just what they pay the guy doing the work. They have licensing fees, insurance fees (which are substantial), vehicle expenses, etc. These are the same costs that any other reputable business in many other industries must pay for and so the expectation should be the same for contractors.

When you set out to do work and solicit quotes from a contractor you will likely get several quotes. In the process of that quoting you should receive the contractors license number which can be verified with the State of Hawaii ( When you do choose the contractor, make sure that you also request a copy of their liability insurance as an additional insured as well as a copy of their workman’s comp insurance. This minimizes any liability to you should anything go wrong throughout the course of the work.

Doing work on your home isn’t always cheap and so it is important to identify what your goals are for the space. Clearly identifying these goals in the beginning and involving a licensed contractor for the job is one way to insure that you get there. In many cases it may appear to be more expensive initially, but long term you are likely to see a better result with minimized risk.

Smartpanel Vs. T1-11

LP Smartside Panel siding with Smartguard zinc borate is the akamai choice for building in Hawaii. Engineered to withstand Hawaii’s harsh climate and protect against termites, LP Smartside has been third party tested in Hilo since 1996 and has a proven track record of success throughout Hawaii’s diverse climates.

Unlike T1-11 plywood siding which has to be soaked in chemicals post-production to protect against termites and fungal decay, all Smartside products are treated with non-toxic zinc borate during the manufacturing process. The result is a 100% treated and moisture controlled structural siding perfect for Hawaii. Plywood treatment often does not penetrate the whole board and can leach out over time. That will never happen with Smartside.

Smartpanel is an APA rated sheathing that can be installed direct to studs up to 24” OC when using 19/32” thickness. 16” OC for 7/16”. Installation is made easier with durable ship lap edges and alignment beads for consistent and seamless appearance from one panel to the next. The ease of installation is a big selling point for builders and far exceeds that of plywood, especially once plywood has been soaked in treatment and often warped as a result. LP panel is flat and true every time.

Plywood has what the industry calls “boat patches” or “footballs” on the surface. These are due to the nature of plywood production where imperfections in veneers are removed and replaced with patches. Aesthetically it is not as pleasing. LP Smartside is an engineered product, so all of the knots are removed while processing logs down to the wood “strands” which are ultimately oriented and pressed under intense heat and pressure to make the board.

LP Smartside panel comes with a factory applied resin impregnated and primed cedar texture overlay, providing an exceptional painting surface. Primer is not needed, and any acrylic latex paint will do. Builders have reported significant savings in paint costs when compared to T1-11 plywood.

OSB products like LP Smartside are more environmentally friendly and efficient to produce. Smartside uses only aspen in its substrate. Aspen is fast growing and stable. LP is able to use smaller diameter tress, while plywood manufacturers require larger old growth logs to provide sufficient size veneer. LP was green before green was a trend. They use virtually all of every log harvested. Any waste, like removed knots as discussed previously, is processed down and used as fuel to power mills.

LP Smartpanel carries an industry leading 5/50 transferrable warranty. That means for the first 5 years 100% labor and material coverage if the product fails to perform as stated. After 5 years, material is covered up to 50. Generally, if an exterior siding has manufacturing defects, it will show up in the first 5 years. I have been selling Smartside in Hawaii since 2006 with no product failure. On a windward side beach, jungle in Hilo or Kauai, or dry leeward side, it performs every time.

The advantages of LP Smartside siding over T1-11 to both the builder and homeowner are abundantly clear. I believe in the product so much I used it on my own remodel on Oahu, and now am planning to use it on a new build in Waimea, Big Island which could very well be our forever home.

Feel free to reach out to me directly for more information or online:

Ryan Counter
Vandermeer Forest Products – Hawaii

by Michael McElhinney Siding

Maintaining Your Rain Gutters

Rain gutter maintenance is often something on a home that gets forgotten but is necessary in order to mitigate potential long term damage to your home due to poor preforming rain gutters. In many cases
it is better to not have rain gutters than a rain gutter that is not working properly.
Signs to look for when your rain gutter is not working properly:
  • Water leaking from corners- this is a sign that your rain gutters need to be resealed. If you are unsure how to do it, this is something that pays to hire a professional. Often times we see homeowners attempting to fix leaks on their own only to find that their repair is only temporary.
  • Water flowing behind the rain gutter- when you encounter this problem, it is best to consult a professional to assess the installation of the rain gutter and/ or potential roof leaks.
  • Water overflowing from the rain gutter- this problem is a sign that your rain gutter is either undersized in terms of downspouts or size of rain gutter or that you have clogged downspouts. Often times it is the later and cleaning is all that is needed to ensure continued performance.
  • Rain gutter pulling away from fascia- this can be caused by either fastener failure or failing fascia. This is a problem that should be taken very seriously as soon as it is seen. If not you could face significant repair expenses as the rain gutter can be seriously damaged or damage more property as it pulls away from your home.
  • Standing water in rain gutter- a little standing water is expected in some sections of the rain gutter as it is difficult to put downspouts in all locations to minimize ponding. For the most part though, your rain gutter should not be ponding water as this is a sign of an incorrectly sloped rain gutter. If this is the case it can lead to greater debris build up which will eventually clog the rain gutters or increased infestation of mosquitos. There are points that rain gutters are installed level for aesthetic reasons, when this is done rain gutters will require significantly more maintenance. As a general rule rain gutters should be installed with slope.
  • Water leaking from downspout connection to rain gutter- this usually happens due to downspouts beginning to tear away from the bottom of the rain gutter or failure of sealant in that connection. When you come across a problem like this sometimes resealing is effective, but the best solution is to have a professional evaluate the attachment of the downspout as this is often times a source of failure on the rain gutter.
  • Smashed downspout elbows- this is a common occurrence and can easily be fixed with a replacement elbow.
It is always best to observe your rain gutters while it is raining for best assessment of any repairs that may need to be made to you rain gutters. Don’t hesitate to take a picture or video so that you can have it available if you need to consult a professional. If repairs are left unattended on rain gutters they can lead to repairs that will cost significantly more than just repairing the rain gutter to start with.